How to choose diamond stud earrings: size, setting and shape

Diamond studs are the piece of jewelry most people wear most often, and the one they know least about buying. Three decisions cover almost all of it: size, setting and shape.

Size: total weight means both ears

Studs are sold by total carat weight, the two stones added together. A 1 carat pair is two half-carat diamonds, not two one-carat diamonds. This catches a lot of people out, so check which figure you are looking at.

For round diamonds, as a rough guide:

• 0.5 carat total: about 4 mm each. Small and subtle, good for second piercings or a first pair.
• 1 carat total: about 5 mm each. The classic everyday size.
• 2 carat total: about 6.5 mm each. Clearly noticeable, still wearable every day.
• 3 carat total and up: 7.4 mm and larger. A statement pair.

Ears are seen from further away than hands, so studs can go larger than you might expect before they look big. Ours run from 0.5 to 10 carats total weight.

Setting: five ways to hold a stone

Four prong. The classic. Four small claws, the least metal and the most light into the diamond.

Tiger prong. Pointed claws instead of rounded ones, for a sharper, more modern look.

Bezel. A thin rim of metal all the way around the stone. The most protective setting, smooth to the touch, with a clean contemporary look.

Martini. A cone-shaped setting that lets the diamond sit low and close to the earlobe, so the stud is less likely to tip forward. Worth considering for larger sizes.

Martini bezel. The low martini profile with a bezel rim.

In our studs the setting does not change the price, so choose the one you like.

Shape

Round is the most popular stud by a distance, because it sparkles the most and looks right from any angle. Princess gives a crisp square. Oval, pear, marquise and emerald read as more individual, and cushion, radiant, Asscher and heart are there if you want something different. We make studs in all ten shapes. For how the shapes differ, see choosing a shape.

Quality: where to spend

Studs are seen from a conversation's distance, not under a loupe, so tiny differences in clarity matter less than they do in a ring. Both of our grades, D/E color with VVS clarity and F/G color with VS clarity, look clean and white on the ear. If you are choosing between a higher grade and a larger size, most people are happier with the size.

Backs: push or screw

Push backs slide on and off and are quick for everyday use. Screw backs thread onto the post, take a few seconds longer, and are much harder to lose. For larger or more valuable pairs, screw backs are the sensible choice. Ours are available with either.

Metal

White metals, which means white gold, platinum or silver, disappear behind the diamond and make it look larger. Yellow and rose gold frame it with color. Silver is the most affordable way into a real diamond pair, and platinum is the safest choice for sensitive ears. Every pair comes in eight metals.

Browse diamond studs, or see all earrings including hoops and huggies.